But let's start from the beginning
First of all, as already explained in the previous article, chalk is very different from common blackboard chalk. Both are carbonates, but the specific one for climbing is magnesium-based and has very strong anti-sweat properties, provides better friction between the skin of the hands and the rock, and also improves the general grip.
Although it is unclear exactly how long ago, chalk in sports has been around for as long as modern gymnastics. Gymnasts originally called it “mag” because of its composition.
We can say it for sure: John Gill , one of the greatest precursors and innovators of bouldering, had a clear vision. The American gymnast introduced the use of climbing chalk in 1954. Before him, when climbers had sweaty hands, they wiped them on their pants or took a handful of earth and rubbed it between their palms. It wasn't exactly an optimal solution from a performance point of view, for obvious reasons!
John Gill saw climbing as an extension of gymnastics, a view that conflicted with the common view that climbing was an extension of hiking.
He realized, in fact, that the remarkable properties of gymnastic chalk as a drying agent, which significantly improved grip, would be perfect for climbing.
During the 1950s, he increasingly explored bouldering areas to establish short, dynamic routes. His idea of climbing was essentially a marriage of the dynamic movements of gymnastics with the vertical progression of traditional climbing, which before Gill, was extremely static in nature.
Naturally, bringing this dynamism to the world of climbing required greater grip, which is why Gill identified gymnastic chalk as the perfect solution.
There is no denying it: John Gill's contribution to bouldering was revolutionary, so much so that even the prestigious Alpinist magazine called him " the beginning of modern climbing in America ". The rest, as they say, is history: since then there has been no climber in the world who does not use chalk.
That said, it is important to know that chalk has evolved into many styles and forms and today is much different than the standard chalk of the past.
What does Chalk look like?
Today's chalk typically comes in three forms: a fine powder (which can be dissolved or placed in gauze balls), blocks , and liquid .
Each climber chooses the type of chalk based on personal preferences, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages.
Chalk powder
Loose and block chalks are great for longer, more traditional climbs, since you can carry them in a bag and use them quickly while on the wall, in the middle of a route, or at a belay.
Powdered chalk is perhaps the most popular form because it is easier to share with friends.
Just dip your hands in the bag and voilà, they are covered and ready for a perfect grip! Well, at least before the COVID era.
Some disadvantages : it doesn’t last very long and it’s easy to use too much and waste it. In these cases, sometimes you even risk being “suffocated” for a moment by using too much of it and that’s not a very nice situation.
Chalk in blocks
Block chalk isn’t much different than loose chalk, except that it comes in a solid block that you break into small crumbs and rub on your hands until they become dust. It definitely makes less of a “mess” and is less wasteful.
Liquid Chalk
Liquid chalk , on the other hand, is a whole different story!
It is probably the best choice for the modern climber and boulderer from an ethical, practical and even hygienic point of view. It usually comes in a tube and you put a small amount on before a climb, then rub it in and let it dry. A not insignificant detail: one application is enough for an entire climbing session: for example, if you are climbing crimps, you can coat only your tips and you don't waste any, fantastic, right?
Other benefits? Simply put: In the gym and outdoors, it is gentler on plastic and rock. It is less messy and wasteful. It leaves almost no residue (usually none) and you use less of it.
